Crimptocurrency

 

Push Paul has been busy and being Push Paul when he set routes he is never just going from A to B: he’s making a point about technique. So come on down and see if you agree. For a start crimp specialists, improvers, or wannabees should pick out the pink route on wall number two.

 

 

  • Paul getting his crimp on; starting from the floor
  • Use that edge
  • Extend to ascend
  • Don’t forget the leverage from your left
  • Should be getting the hang by now

 

 

Who is it for? Those who want to practice compression, intermediate to advanced, 6 c

 

Why compression? It’s an incredible skill; it tightens up your core, improves your balance, and your momentum management as you throw for a grip but have to control that force to stop following through.

 

The route uses the side of the wall so you have to compress between the sidewall and the hold so it almost becomes a slapping motion as you move on up.

 

There are very small footholds but very positive crimps so on a finger strength scale this is kind of three out of five.

 

 

How to start;

 

You start with small crimp for your right hand and your left on the edge of the wall itself. You have to compress and stand up to go onto a dead point which leaves you almost over-extended and at the limit of your reach.

 

and yet not really a height issue, as long as you keep compression – your knees are still bent so it is a test of compression not really about how tall a climber you are.

 

 

Slapping Buddha

 

Why Slapping Buddha?

 

Because there’s a round volume that sticks out like a protruding belly complete with a belly button.

 

What’s the deal?

 

This is a climb with a lot of movement across the wall. You will be moving right over from one side to the other so there is a recognition of space and of where the climber is with respect to all the other walls.

 

  • Move starts way over to the left
  • But starts to move across the wall
  • Towards the right hand wall
  • The wall is ON so use it
  • Balance yourself
  • And slap that Buddha Belly

 

How to start.

 

You start with a big side pull, you match on the sloper with your foot on the side, and go.

 

There is a lot of switching and pushing the climber to lower their centre of gravity which means there is a lot of lean back to get low and keep the grip. It carries on in the same vain right to the top; the real jigsaw is early on as you negotiate the Buddha Belly round sloper. Of course the Buddha Belly isn’t the end of the route, but it’s the highlight.

 

 

Switches get Stitches

 

What’s it about?

 

The name is a clue here. This is a route with nice big positive holds and so you could do it without switching but it would be tricky and there are a number of points where it is intentionally set to force people to get used to switching.

 

  • It’s a long way…
  • to the top…
  • if you want to rock your holds

 

Watching Paul do it he actually pulls five switches on the ascent.

 

 

So come on down and get busy, the routes are 6Bs aimed at improvers working on their technique. Not an improver? Don’t worry, we have routes for everyone and every level.