Grading System

THE GRADING SYSTEM

Climbing grades are easy enough to understand. The bigger the number the more difficult the climb. Right? While this is true, understanding the nuances of climbing grades, both in the climbing gym and outside, may give you a little more insight into picking climbs and will also make talking about climbing to other climbers a whole lot easier. Before we get started . . .

*Disclaimer: Climbing grades are subjective. Hard as we may try, there is no perfect system for grading climbs. While our systems have improved over the years, the fact remains that climbing is a highly individualistic and subjective sport. Our differences make us stronger in some areas, weaker in others, and ultimately unable to bring together a perfect system for grading climbs. This is what makes our sport special, though. So try your best to embrace it!

Grading systems are the “common language” that climbers use to talk about the difficulty of a given route.  Outside on real mountains, climbers use whatever holds they can find to scale the wall, and then decide on a number that represents the difficulty of the climb. 

Inside, we try to simulate this same phenomenon with colored holds that act as a map to help the climber navigate to the top of the wall.  Now that you’re all geared up and ready to climb, let’s talk about what all of these numbers mean so you can choose your first “project.”

OK, How Do We Know if a Route Is Hard or Not?

• The two most popular scales for roped climbing are the French and the American system.
• The French is based on codes like 4 a,b,c where 4 represents the level and “abc” a difficulty within the level.
• In the French version the numbers range from 1 to 9 and have sub-levels of abc, sometimes a + is used to even further narrow the level .
• On the American system or also known as the Yosemite Decimal Scale the difficulty is shown on numbers ranging from 5.1 to 5.15.
• The American system goes even further in the subdivision of levels by using “ abc and d” to avoid using “+”.
• Climbers on the 4 to 6a bracket are considered beginners
• 6a+ to 7a+ climbers are considered intermediate
• 7b to 8b monsters are considered Advanced
• 8b+ to 9b+ is pro-level or downright Alien.

Tip: Don’t get too caught up on the numbers, enjoy the climb and track your progress.